Weave Irregularity
Visible horizontal lines or bands in a finished textile occur when the density of the weft yarns changes due to a machine interruption. A stop mark defect is characterized by a slight thickening or thinning of the pick count at the point where the loom was restarted. It often appears as a shadow across the width of the linen cloth.
This flaw reduces the aesthetic value of the fabric and may lead to rejection by the buyer. Detailed inspection under standardized lighting is required to identify these marks before the goods are shipped to the customer.
Mechanical Cause
Improper tension adjustment during the restart process is the primary reason for these blemish formations. When the machine stops to repair a broken yarn, the warp can stretch or relax, causing the stop mark defect once the motor engages. Modern looms use electronic let-off systems to compensate for this movement.
Without this technology, the manual skill of the weaver determines the severity of the mark.
Quality Assessment
Grading standards for linen usually categorize these occurrences based on their visibility after the bleaching or dyeing process. A minor stop mark defect might vanish during finishing, while a heavy one remains a permanent scar on the roll. Inspectors mark these areas with plastic tags for the cutting room.
Minimizing these flaws is a primary goal of mill maintenance programs.