Edge Reinforcement
The woven edge of a fabric formed by twisting warp threads around each other to lock the weft yarn in place prevents fraying during subsequent finishing processes. In flax weaving mills, a leno selvage is applied to loosely woven linen fabrics to stabilize the borders before the cloth enters the wash bath. This structural reinforcement ensures that the fabric retains its width and alignment under tension.
Mechanism Lock
Specialized harness frames containing open eyes and lifting needles twist the doup end around the ground warp end during loom operation. This twisting action secures each inserted weft yarn firmly in a tight embrace, producing a leno selvage that can withstand the action of high-speed shuttleless looms. Because linen weft yarns are stiff and springy, they require this positive lock to avoid slipping or loosening at the margins.
The resulting clean border allows for smooth trimming or sewing during garment production.
Finisher Quality
Finishing operations such as bleaching and dyeing apply strong lateral forces that can distort unstable borders. A well-constructed leno selvage prevents yarn distortion and limits the loss of usable fabric area. Weaver audits monitor the tension of the doup threads to avoid puckering along the fabric edges.
