Cloth Structure
Woven fabric structure depends on the spacing of weft yarns forced together at the boundary where yarn becomes cloth. Technicians measure the spacing of these picks to determine fell density, which influences both the weight and the tightness of the linen cloth. This boundary moves during each reed strike, and its stable placement prevents pick spacing variations.
Incorrect settings cause thin or thick bars across the width of the fabric. The density of the weft at this boundary determines the cover factor, which directly governs the permeability and light transmission of the finished linen.
Tension Control
Mechanical adjustments to the warp let off and fabric take up systems govern the exact position of the cloth boundary during the weaving cycle. Because flax yarns lack elasticity, managing fell density requires continuous monitoring of the warp tension on the loom. Minor fluctuations in tension alter the position of the beat up point, resulting in variable pick counts per centimeter.
Weft insertion speeds must cooperate with the tension control to avoid structural faults.
Quality Documentation
Quality assurance inspectors in Chinese linen mills measure the pick count at five distinct locations on every finished bolt. The resulting fell density measurements are recorded on the fabric inspection sheet before the roll proceeds to the finishing department. If the density deviates from the buyer’s specification, the roll is flagged for downgrading or reprocessing.