Structural Density
Fabric construction specifications denote the number of warp yarns found in a single centimeter of cloth width. In the technical docket, ends per centimeter determines the lateral tightness of the weave and influences the total weight of the linen. This value remains constant throughout the length of the bolt unless a loom malfunction occurs.
Weaving mills monitor this count to ensure the fabric meets the buyer’s requirement for opacity and strength.
Loom Setting
Reed selection and drawing-in drafts dictate the initial ends per centimeter before the weaving process begins. During production, the tension on the warp beam must be maintained to prevent the yarns from crowding or spreading. If the tension is too high the count may decrease slightly as the yarns stretch.
Higher counts are typically used for fine shirting linen while lower counts are standard for heavy canvassing. Automated optical sensors now count the yarns during the weaving phase to provide real-time data to the operators. Verification of the reed width ensures the correct density is achieved across the full cloth.
Verification Step
Finished cloth inspection involves taking multiple count readings across the full width of the fabric. Any deviation from the agreed tolerance leads to a downgrade of the entire roll. This measurement is crucial for calculating the precise amount of dye required for the finishing stage.
