Edge Tension
Tension differences between the borders of a finished fabric and the main body of the cloth can cause distortions during processing and subsequent finishing. Excessive selvedge tightness occurs when the edge yarns are under greater tension than the body yarns, leading to puckering or curling at the roll edges. This condition must be avoided to ensure even processing through the stenter frames and dye ranges.
Tension Causes
Weaving factors affect tension based on the choice of structure for the edge, which often uses a plain density to secure the edges of a twill or satin body. Because the plain pattern has more frequent interlacings, the warp yarns in the edge experience more crimp and are consumed at a faster rate than the body yarns. To manage this, mills use separate edge bobbin feeds or adjustable tension devices on the loom to balance the tension across the entire width of the fabric.
Weaving Quality
Uneven edge tension is recorded on the fabric inspection sheet as a defect if it causes the edges to tear during finishing or sewing. This quality control measure prevents the rejection of finished fabric rolls by the buyer. Correctly tensioned borders are essential for smooth roll winding.