Standard Operating Inspection Protocol for Four Point Greige Scoring
ASTM D5430 four-point scoring normalises greige defects per 100 square yards, capping penalties at four points per yard to decide lot acceptance.
Selvage Curling
Fabric Geometry
Tension variance during the lateral edge finishing process results in selvage curling. Differential shrinkage rates between the primary body of the cloth and the reinforced outer borders trigger this deformation. Residual mechanical stress within the yarns prevents the material from remaining flat upon exiting the looms.
Measurement Protocol
Inspecting agents quantify the vertical lift of the edges by placing the textile on a flat surface and gauging the deviation in millimetres. High resolution optical sensors verify the degree of roll against the technical specifications established in the production contract. Mill internal quality control logs record these measurements before final heat setting operations commence.
Operators identify the point of failure when the curvature exceeds the tolerance levels defined by the garment manufacturer. Excessive roll interferes with automated cutting machinery and ruins the alignment of pattern pieces during assembly.
Production Variance
Flax fibres possess lower elastic recovery than synthetic filaments and often exhibit pronounced tendencies toward edge distortion. Moisture content fluctuations throughout the finishing stage frequently aggravate the natural unevenness of the dense edge structure. Prolonged storage of rolls under heavy weights sometimes hides the defect until the tension releases during the conversion phase.
Consistent thermal stabilization reduces the prevalence of this distortion across long production runs.