Yarn Management
Tension control during the weaving process determines the runnability of linen yarn and the structural uniformity of the finished cloth. Establishing the correct flax warp tension requires balancing the mechanical strength of the flax fibre against the stretching forces exerted by the shedding and beat-up mechanisms. This tension must be high enough to ensure a clean shed opening but low enough to prevent the yarn from exceeding its yield point.
Mill Calibration
Setting the proper tension level involves analyzing the yarn count, the sizing percentage and the moisture content of the warp beam before mounting it on the loom. The flax warp tension must be continuously adjusted because flax has very low elasticity, meaning that even minor variations in warp length can cause massive tension fluctuations. During operation, the let-off and take-up motions must work in tandem to keep this tension within a narrow range, typically between forty and sixty centinewtons per thread depending on the fabric structure.
If the tension is allowed to rise too high, the individual flax fibres will break, causing frequent loom stops and reducing the output of the mill. Conversely, low tension levels lead to poor shed definition and cause the weft insertion rapier to catch on loose threads.
Fabric Consistency
Final cloth quality is highly dependent on keeping warp forces stable throughout the entire length of the loom beam. If the flax warp tension is not maintained at a uniform level, the finished linen fabric will suffer from uneven pick spacing and varying cloth width. This variation can lead to the rejection of the entire batch during final inspection by the buyer.