Standard Setup Rules for Four Point Greige Perches
Standard four-point greige perches require a 45-60 degree tilt, 1200+ lux D65 lighting, synchronized tension drive, and strict ASTM D5430 demerit point scoring.
Cut Width
Weaving Dimension
The measured distance from selvage to selvage of a woven linen fabric determines the usable area available for garment manufacturing. In the weaving house, the cut width refers to the horizontal measurement of the cloth on the loom roll. This metric establishes the baseline size of the greige fabric.
Tension Regulation
Maintaining stable warp tension across the loom prevents the selvages from pulling inward and narrowing the fabric. If the cut width varies by more than a few millimeters, it indicates that the temple rolls or yarn brake mechanisms require adjustment. Consistent weft yarn insertion keeps the edges straight.
This mechanical stability ensures that the cloth remains uniform from the start to the end of the warp run.
Finishing Allowance
The fabric undergoes wet processing, including scouring and dyeing, which alters the final dimensions of the linen through natural shrinkage. Technicians calculate the required cut width at the loom to compensate for this expected shrinkage and ensure the finished fabric meets the contracted width. This calculation relies on the shrinkage profile of the specific flax yarn used in the weave.
If the raw fabric is woven too narrow, the finished cloth will fall below the buyer’s acceptance criteria, leading to rejection of the entire batch. The mill therefore sets strict tolerances on the loom to prevent these dimensional errors.