Fibre Grading
Raw flax stock arrives from retting fields carrying varying levels of trash and moisture before machinery processes the dry stems into usable strands. Workers evaluate these raw bundles by measuring linear density and tensile strength while sorting the lots for the spinning mill. The tex rating of the material establishes the mass per unit length of the prepared sliver entering the draw frame.
Factories apply this standard exclusively during preparatory drafting stages where sliver weight dictates final yarn regularity. Inspectors record the numeric values on internal mill batch cards that accompany every pallet toward the wet spinning lines. Mill managers rely upon these internal classifications rather than external buyer demands to calibrate machine tension during drafting operations.
Lower numerical values denote finer ultimate yarns while higher figures demand coarser settings on the roving frames.
Yarn Specifying
Drafting rollers stretch the prepared flax rope until the strand reaches the target thickness required for commercial linen weaving. Operators check the linear density continuously using electronic capacitance testers mounted directly above the ring spinning frames. The tex rating guides technicians when they alter twist multipliers to maintain adequate breaking tenacity in the wet yarn.
Laboratories log these measurements within production quality ledgers to verify compliance with contractual spinning tolerances. Buyer acceptance criteria differ from factory specifications because commercial contracts mandate strict limits on hairiness and thin spots along the continuous filament. Mills reject lots exceeding permitted mass deviations before the bobbins transfer to the warping department for beam preparation.
Weaving sheds demand uniform yarn strength to prevent warp breakage during high speed shuttle insertion on mechanical looms.
Cloth Verification
Woven linen fabric undergoes final inspection on backlit examination tables where graders search for broken picks and slubs across the finished surface. Technicians cut small square samples from the roll edge to determine the linear weight of the woven material per square metre. The tex rating of the constituent warp and weft yarns influences the drape and stiffness of the finished textile.
Quality controllers record final findings on formal mill test certificates accompanying export consignments to international garment manufacturers. Fabric grades evaluate overall surface regularity and structural integrity whereas fibre grades measure raw tensile properties prior to spinning. Export documentation references these verified linear densities to satisfy customs declarations and verify compliance with international textile nomenclature.