Jacquard Repeat Length Priced as Card Time and Loom Hours
Pricing Jacquard repeat length requires balancing flat card preparation fees against loom hour rate increases caused by harness mass speed penalties.
Straight Tie Repeat Calculations
Pattern Geometry
Planning the layout of a Jacquard harness requires determining how many times a design pattern will repeat across the total width of the fabric. In jacquard weaving, straight tie repeat calculations establish the relationship between the total number of harness cords, the pattern size in warp ends, and the reed width. This mathematical process ensures that the pattern repeats an integer number of times across the warp sheet, avoiding any partial or cut-off designs at the selvedges.
Loom Layout Calculation
To perform straight tie repeat calculations, the weaver divides the total number of active hooks in the Jacquard machine by the number of ends in a single pattern repeat. This division yields the number of full repeats that can be accommodated across the harness. If the result is not a whole number, the weaver must adjust either the pattern width or the warp density to ensure a clean fit.
For example, a design that is four hundred ends wide can repeat six times on a loom set up with two thousand four hundred active hooks.
Harness Setup
Harness builders use these calculations to tie the cords from the Jacquard hooks to the heald frames. This setup remains fixed for the entire production run of that fabric style. Accurate layout is necessary to ensure the design runs cleanly without distortion.