Chemical Modification
Emulsion-based chemical finishing agents are applied to textiles to modify their tactile properties and surface smoothness. In the processing of woven flax, silicone softener coats the individual linen fibres with a thin, flexible polymer layer to reduce friction and stiffness. This treatment imparts a luxurious hand to the linen fabric, making it more comfortable for apparel and resolving the inherent harshness of raw flax.
Softness Improvement
Finishing mills apply these chemical emulsions during the padding stage, where the fabric is passed through a bath and then squeezed between rollers. The treated fabric is then dried and cured in a stenter frame to fix the silicone molecules onto the cellulose structure of the flax fibres. Technicians must control the concentration of the emulsion and the curing temperature to prevent yellowing of the fabric or a reduction in its natural moisture absorption.
When applied correctly, the chemical finish also improves the tear strength and sewing performance of the fabric by allowing yarns to slide more easily.
Finish Specification
Mill laboratories test the water absorption and tear resistance of the treated fabric to ensure the finish does not compromise the natural breathability of linen. The results are recorded on the technical data sheet that accompanies the fabric shipment to the garment manufacturer. Buyer specifications often dictate the maximum percentage of softening agents that can be applied, as excessive treatment can cause a greasy handle and reduce the fabric’s long-term durability.
By balancing softness and absorbency, the finishing department delivers a product that meets both the tactile demands of the consumer and the functional requirements of the brand.