Fabric Flaw
Longitudinal lines of high density and narrow spacing in woven fabric are caused by individual warp yarns that are held under excessive tension during weaving. These visible defects are known as tight end streaks, appearing as dark or shiny bands running down the length of the linen fabric. They disrupt the uniform texture of the linen, making the fabric unsuitable for premium garments.
Early detection during weaving or inspection is necessary to prevent large-scale fabric downgrades.
Tension Defect
Excessive tension on a single warp yarn can result from a clogged guide eyelet, a malfunctioning warp stop-motion drop wire, or an uneven tensioner on the creel. During the weaving stage, the tightly pulled yarn does not crimp as much as the adjacent yarns, creating a straight path that forces the neighboring yarns closer to it. This structural shift creates the visible tight end streaks, which are often highlighted during the dyeing and finishing of the linen cloth.
Technicians use manual tension meters to check the tension of suspect warp ends, recording any high-tension anomalies in the loom adjustment sheet. Ensuring proper let-off action and clean guide paths on the loom eliminates the mechanical friction that causes these yarn-specific tension spikes.
Grading Standard
Inspection guidelines grade these streaks as major faults that run through the entire roll. Mill inspectors record the presence of these lines on the fabric roll map during the final inspection stage. If more than three such streaks are found in a hundred-meter roll, the fabric fails the buyer’s acceptance criteria for export-grade linen shirtings.
The roll is then downgraded from first-grade export to a lower-value grade, causing financial loss to the mill.