Deriving Finished Woven Linen Weight Metrics from Greige Density Factors
Deriving finished linen weight from greige density factors requires adjusting thread counts for dimensional contraction while subtracting non-cellulosic scour loss.
Sizing Paste Mass
Adhesive Application
Starch or polymer deposition on the surface of warp yarn provides the necessary cohesion and abrasion resistance to withstand the mechanical action of the loom. This applied chemical layer, referred to as sizing paste mass, must be monitored to prevent both yarn breakage and desizing complications. It is expressed as a dry weight percentage of the untreated yarn, varying according to yarn density and loom speed.
Mills must apply enough sizing to coat the fibers without making the yarn brittle.
Technical Balance
The application occurs in the sizing machine where yarn sheets pass through a heated vat of liquid size before being dried by cylinders. If the sizing paste mass is too low, the yarn will fray under the friction of the harness and reed, causing frequent loom stoppages. Conversely, an excessive mass makes the yarn stiff and difficult to run, and it increases the chemical load during the finishing wash.
Testing is conducted by desizing a sample in a hot enzyme bath, washing, drying, and calculating the weight loss to confirm the percentage of size applied.
Extraction Process
Finishing plants rely on enzymatic desizing to completely remove the protective layer before dyeing or bleaching the linen. Insufficient removal of the sizing paste mass results in uneven dye absorption and splotchy fabric finishes.