Fabric Construction
Weft-edge specifications define the number of warp threads per unit of width at the outer borders of a woven cloth. High selvedge end density prevents the edges of the linen fabric from fraying or tearing during high-speed weaving and subsequent finishing. These threads are often doubled or tripled compared to the main body of the warp.
The resulting reinforced zone provides a stable surface for the temple rollers to grip.
Edge Reinforcement
Engineering the fabric edges requires a different drawing-in plan for the selvedge yarns. To achieve the required selvedge end density, the weaver often uses a separate set of heald frames or a different reed denting pattern. This increased density ensures that the edge can withstand the tension of the weft yarn as it turns back or is trimmed by the catch-cord.
Strong edges are particularly important for linen fabrics that undergo heavy scouring or bleaching.
Density Limit
Excessive thickness at the borders can cause issues during the batching and rolling process. If the selvedge end density is too high, the edges of the roll will build up faster than the center, leading to a baggy fabric profile. This condition creates tension imbalances that might result in creases during dyeing.
The specification is strictly governed by the buyer’s requirement for a clean and stable edge that can be easily handled by automated cutting machines. Careful calculation of the number of ends prevents the edge from becoming too bulky for the sewing room.