Reconciling Scouring Mass Loss and Wet Contraction in Landed Linen Fabric Costing
Landed linen costing requires dividing greige linear price by the net length yield factor while netting out chemical scouring mass loss from gross roll weight.
Linear Shrinkage Ratio
Dimensional Change
Laundering or chemical treatment of woven fabrics causes a reduction in length and width as the tensioned fibres relax and return to their stable state. The linear shrinkage ratio measures this percentage change in fabric dimensions after a standard washing cycle. It is calculated by comparing the distance between pre-marked points on the cloth before and after the washing process.
Wet Testing
Standardized laboratory washing machines agitate fabric samples in hot water and detergent to simulate domestic or industrial laundering. Linen fabrics are particularly prone to shrinkage because the high tension applied during weaving is released when the fibres absorb water. The test is repeated along both the warp and weft directions to determine how much the cloth will contract in each dimension.
This testing allows the mill to generate a precise shrinkage profile for every batch of linen, which is recorded in the final quality certificate before shipment.
Finishing Target
Processing mills use these test results to adjust the overfeed on stenter frames and mechanical pre-shrinking machines. By knowing the shrinkage behavior, finishing plants can pre-shrink the fabric to meet buyer specifications. This ensures that the garments made from the fabric will maintain their shape after washing.