Yarn Classification
Calculation of yarn fineness by the indirect numbering system represents the standard method for designating the weight per unit length of spun threads. For blended linen yarns produced in Chinese spinning mills, cotton count specifies the number of eighty-four-hundred-yard hanks that weigh one pound. This indirect system means that a higher number represents a finer yarn, whereas a lower number designates a thicker, coarser thread.
Spun blends of flax and cotton rely on this designation to determine the setup of the weaving looms and the expected density of the finished fabric.
Mill Calculation
Determining the count involves measuring a precise length of yarn on a wrap reel and weighing it on a grain balance. This process yields the yarn number under standard moisture conditions, which dictates the settings of the drafting rollers. To maintain uniformity, the technician takes samples from multiple bobbins at regular intervals during the spinning shift.
The moisture of flax fibers can vary by shift, which changes the weight, so correcting the measured weight to a standard regain of eight point five percent is mandatory for an accurate calculation. This ensures that the yarn meets both the mill’s internal quality baseline and the external contract specifications.
Quality Tolerance
Contractual acceptance criteria allow only minor deviations from the specified count to prevent tension fluctuations during weaving. When the cotton count deviates beyond the allowed limits, the yarn causes unevenness in the woven fabric and leads to streaks after dyeing. The yarn count is documented on the spinning mill certificate before the yarn packages are dispatched to the weaving department.
