Yarn Count and Evenness Checks before a Cone Lot Ships
Verify conditioned skein count, capacitive CVm evenness, and cone hardness against ISO tolerances to stop defective flax yarn before freight release.
Barre Fault
Defect Definition
Continuous horizontal bands of varying density or luster across the width of a woven cloth represent a structural imperfection that diminishes the commercial value of finished linen. This particular irregularity, known as barre fault, arises from inconsistencies in pick spacing, yarn count, or yarn tension during the weaving process. It is characterized by its repeating nature along the warp direction, distinguishing it from random, isolated defects.
When mills grade the woven fabric before finishing, the presence of these bands determines whether the roll meets the buyer’s quality requirements or must be downgraded to second quality.
Mechanical Origin
Inadequate tension control at the loom beam or a malfunctioning take-up mechanism typically introduces the cyclic variation. As the loom operates, a minor slippage in the let-off system creates localized regions of high or low pick density. Yarn properties also contribute to the pattern, especially when packages of weft yarn from different spinning lots are mixed.
If the yarn has variable moisture content or wax levels, the difference in friction alters the pick spacing during beat-up, causing the barre fault to become visible only after wet finishing. The finishing stage often amplifies the defect because unevenly tensioned yarns absorb dyestuff at different rates, turning a subtle mechanical discrepancy into a stark band of light and dark shades.
Assessment Standard
Inspection reports under the standard four-point grading system limit the allowable frequency of these bands. A single occurrence spanning more than several centimeters can trigger a major penalty or immediate rejection of the entire roll. Buyers of high-grade linen often apply zero-tolerance criteria for such visible bars because they cannot be corrected by dyeing.
In contrast, minor variations may be accepted for garments that will be heavily laundered or distressed.