Ends and Picks That Deliver a Target Weight in Linen
Target linen weight depends on yarn tex, ends, picks, and crimp contraction; calculating raw count without finishing shrinkage overshoots mass targets.
Stop Mark Density Spike
Weaving Fault
Localized variations in pick density can occur when a loom is stopped and then restarted, creating a visible band across the fabric. A stop mark density spike is a specific fault where the pick spacing becomes compressed at the restart point, resulting in a narrow band of high thread density. This defect detracts from the appearance of high-quality fabrics and is especially noticeable in plain-weave linen materials.
Loom Startup Impact
The tension on the warp yarn relaxes during a loom stoppage, and when the loom restarts, the first few picks can be beaten-in too closely before the normal weaving tension is re-established. Modern looms use automatic pick finding and tension compensation systems to adjust the let-off and take-up motors upon restart, which helps prevent this stop mark density spike. If these systems are not calibrated correctly, the reed beats the newly inserted weft yarn too far into the fell of the cloth.
Adjusting the start-up position of the reed minimizes this compression effect.
Defect Identification
Inspectors locate these density spikes during post-weaving quality checks using a pick glass or automatic camera systems. Defective areas are marked on the roll log for quality evaluation. Reducing these stops is key to achieving consistent fabric grading.