Four Point Inspection Procedures for Woven Linen Greige Cloth Quality Control
Standardized four-point greige inspection prevents downstream finishing losses by enforcing objective ASTM D5430 defect scoring before cloth conversion.
Selvedge Pin Tear
Edge Integrity
Mechanical failure during fabric processing occurs when the tenter hooks exert excessive lateral tension on the unsupported weave. A selvedge pin tear originates where the metal clips grip the outer margin of the cloth to hold width dimensions during high heat drying. High speed machinery frequently exerts forces exceeding the tensile strength of the yarns at the tension points.
Moisture variation across the width of the fabric exacerbates the localized stress, leading to minor apertures that compromise the finished roll.
Inspection Standard
Technical auditors identify these ruptures by examining the perimeter of the bolt under backlighting to detect light leakage through the pin holes. Quality control protocols designate such openings as a grade reduction factor because the damaged area requires excision before garment cutting. Mill documentation records these incidents in the final finishing report to adjust the net yield of the shipment.
Consistent recurrence of these holes forces a reduction in the tenter speed or a modification of the hook geometry to match the cloth density.
Logistics Impact
Proper edge management preserves the full usable width of the textile for international distribution. Fabric rolls arriving with edge holes force manufacturers to calculate a higher waste coefficient, which increases the total production cost for the final apparel units. Wholesale buyers often demand a clear distinction between random fiber breakage and systematic hardware damage.
Documented defects of this nature provide a baseline for adjusting contractual claims regarding the sellable length of the imported linen. Final acceptance of a batch depends on the frequency of these tears appearing within the first three meters of the material roll.