Chemical Binding
Natural adhesive compounds in the plant stem join individual flax fibers into structural bundles. The middle lamella calcium pectinate is the primary cementing substance that binds these individual fibers together. This calcium rich pectin layer must be partially degraded during processing to allow the fibers to be separated and spun into yarn.
It forms the chemical boundary that must be managed to control the fineness of the finished linen. If this layer remains fully intact, the fibers cannot be drafted on the spinning frame.
Retting Influence
Field retting utilizes moisture and fungi to break down these pectins. When microorganisms consume the middle lamella calcium pectinate, they release the fibers from the woody core of the stem. Over retting destroys too much of this binder, which reduces fiber strength and leads to high waste.
Under retting leaves the bundles too stiff and thick for fine yarn production.
Spinning Application
During the wet spinning process, warm water in the trough of the spinning frame softens the remaining pectin. This softening allows the fibers to slide past each other in the drafting zone, producing a fine and uniform yarn. The chemical composition of the water, especially its calcium concentration, affects this softening rate.