Recovery Measurement
Laboratory evaluations of a fabric’s ability to return to its original flat state after being folded under pressure provide a metric for wrinkle resistance. The dry crease recovery angle is determined by folding a specimen and loading it with a specific weight for a set period. After the weight is removed, the angle of the opening fold is measured in degrees.
A larger angle indicates a better ability to resist permanent creasing during wear.
Angular Displacement
Linen fabrics naturally possess a low resistance to deformation due to the rigid crystalline structure of the flax fibre. Improving the dry crease recovery angle usually involves applying liquid resins that cross-link the cellulose chains. Technicians measure both the warp and weft directions to ensure the treatment is even across the entire width of the cloth.
If the angle is too small, the garment will appear excessively wrinkled after only a few minutes of use.
Finish Verification
Export standards for premium linen suiting often require a minimum value for this parameter to satisfy consumer expectations. Testing the dry crease recovery angle allows the mill to calibrate the concentration of crease-resist agents in the stenter frame. Excess resin can make the fabric brittle and reduce its tear strength, so a balance must be found.
Accurate measurement ensures the final cloth meets the performance criteria of the buyer.