Deriving Finished Woven Linen Weight Metrics from Greige Density Factors
Deriving finished linen weight from greige density factors requires adjusting thread counts for dimensional contraction while subtracting non-cellulosic scour loss.
Picks per Cm
Density Specification
Weft count enumeration within a fixed linear unit of cloth determines the compactness and structural integrity of the final textile. This measurement, defined as picks per cm, establishes the density of the weft yarns inserted during the interlacing process. It is a fundamental specification in buyer contracts for linen fabrics, directly affecting the fabric mass per square meter.
A higher density creates a stiffer, more durable fabric that is suitable for heavy apparel or home textiles.
Structural Verification
Inspectors verify this metric using a magnifying pick counter or an electronic density scanner on the finished fabric roll. The inspection is performed at three different points across the width of the cloth to account for any tension variations on the loom. If the measurement falls below the agreed contract value, the mill must adjust the take-up speed of the loom to increase the density.
This parameter is recorded on the final loom sheet and checked against the buyer’s quality checklist before the roll leaves the finishing plant. In Chinese linen mills, this step is necessary to ensure that the density meets international export requirements.
Physical Performance
Fabric shrinkage and air permeability are directly affected by the density of the weft yarn. Low values of picks per cm result in a loose, highly breathable linen that is suitable for summer shirts but prone to seam slippage.