Chemical Structure
Functional chemical groups on the polymer chain of flax fibers govern how raw linen interacts with water and finishing agents. Within the glucose units of the flax plant, each cellulose hydroxl group provides a highly polar site that attracts and binds water molecules through hydrogen bonding.
Moisture Absorption
Processing humidity must be managed in Chinese spinning mills to prevent the fiber from becoming brittle during high speed drafting. The presence of the cellulose hydroxl group allows the fiber to absorb up to twelve percent of its dry weight in atmospheric moisture before feeling damp. If the moisture level drops too low, the intermolecular forces between the cellulose chains stiffen, which increases yarn breakage rates on the spinning frame.
Sustaining a high ambient humidity ensures that these polar sites remain partially hydrated, easing the mechanical stress during drafting.
Finishing Reaction
Industrial dyeing and crease resistant finishing of woven linen rely on the chemical reactivity of these primary and secondary binding sites. Chemical treatments such as resin application or reactive dyeing alter the cellulose hydroxl molecules to crosslink the polymer chains. This modification prevents the chains from sliding past each other when the fabric is bent, which reduces the characteristic wrinkling of linen garments.
The reaction requires precise temperature control and alkaline conditions to ensure even penetration and permanent bonding throughout the fabric thickness.