Alkali Swelling
Molecular swelling of cellulose fibres occurs through exposure to concentrated sodium hydroxide solutions. Within the linen industry, causticization modifies the internal arrangement of the flax to improve dye affinity and luster. This reaction converts cellulose I to cellulose II while increasing the amorphous regions within the fibre.
Chemical Exposure
Immersing the woven cloth in a cold lye bath triggers a dimensional change in the yarns. Because causticization utilizes lower concentrations of alkali than traditional mercerization, the fabric achieves a softer hand without the intense tension associated with higher-strength liquors. Mills monitor the density of the solution and the temperature of the bath to ensure uniform penetration through the thick flax bundles.
Consistency in dwell time prevents uneven shrinking across the width of the roll. Excessive exposure leads to degradation of the bast fibres while insufficient time leaves the core of the yarn untouched.
Dyeing Readiness
Improved absorbency remains the primary target for this stage of finishing. Uniform results in the subsequent dyeing process depend on the thorough removal of natural waxes and the even opening of the fibre pores. The treatment finishes when the alkali is neutralized with a dilute acid and rinsed from the web.